How to Stop Your Cat from Scratching Furniture (Without Declawing)

Why Do Cats Scratch, Anyway?

Understanding why cats scratch helps us address the behavior. Scratching is a normal, instinctual behavior for cats, rooted in their wild ancestry:

• Marking Territory: Cats have scent glands in their paws. When they scratch, they leave behind not only visual marks but also scent signals on the scratched object. In the wild, claw marks on trees were like a bulletin board for other cats – “Tom was here, feeling strong and healthy.” So when your cat scratches your couch, they’re basically saying “this is mine” in cat language.
• Nail Maintenance: Scratching helps remove the old outer sheath of the claws, keeping them sharp and healthy. It’s like shedding an old fingernail layer.
• Stretch and Exercise: Think of scratching as a kitty yoga session. They often dig claws in and pull against that resistance to stretch their back, shoulder, and leg muscles. It feels good and can relieve stress or pent-up energy.
• Stress/Excitement Release: Sometimes cats scratch when they’re excited (like when you come home, they might run to a scratching post) or when they’re anxious (scratching has a calming effect by releasing certain hormones).

So, scratching = essential feline behavior. Our goal is to redirect it to appropriate items, not to stop it entirely.

Provide Attractive Scratching Alternatives

The number one solution is to give your cat something better to scratch than your furniture. That means scratching posts or pads that cater to your cat’s preferences.

What makes a great scratching post?

• Sturdy and Tall: The post should be stable and not wobble. Cats won’t use a scratching post that topples or slides – it scares them. It should also be tall enough for your cat to fully stretch. Many store-bought posts are too short. Ideally, get one at least 30-32 inches tall (or even taller for big cats). If your cat can’t stretch out on it, they’ll seek something else (like your tall couch arm).
• Appealing Material: Different cats have different “favorite scratching feels.” Some love sisal rope or fabric, others prefer cardboard, and some like carpet. You might need to experiment. Sisal (a rough rope or fabric) is often a hit because it provides good resistance and shreds under the claws in a satisfying way. Cardboard scratchers are inexpensive and many cats adore them (plus they lay flat for cats who like horizontal scratching). Try a variety: vertical posts wrapped in sisal, flat cardboard scratchers on the floor, even a log of wood (bark still on) can attract a cat who likes natural wood scratching.
• Vertical and Horizontal: Note if your cat scratches upward (on chair legs, door frames) or horizontally (on rugs). Some cats do both. Provide options for each preference. Vertical posts for those who climb and stretch, flat or angled scratchers for those who like horizontal.
• Multiple Stations: Especially in a multi-cat home, have multiple scratching posts around the house. Place them where your cat spends time – near their sleeping spots (cats often scratch when they wake up), near entrances (for that greeting stretch), and yes, near the furniture they currently target. If Fluffy always claws the left side of the couch, put a tall scratching post right next to that spot. You want to make it just as convenient to scratch the post as the couch. Having several scratching points also prevents resource guarding in multi-cat households.

By giving a variety of “legal” scratching outlets, you satisfy your cat’s need to scratch.

Entice Your Cat to the Posts

Just buying a scratching post isn’t always enough – you might need to do a little sales pitch to your cat:

• Use Catnip or Silvervine: If your cat responds to catnip, rub some catnip on the new scratching post or use a catnip spray. This can draw them to investigate and hopefully start scratching. Some posts even come infused with catnip. Silvervine (a catnip alternative some cats prefer) powder can also be sprinkled to entice them.
• Play Around the Post: Dangle a toy or ribbon around the scratching post, so your cat chases and accidentally grabs onto the post with their claws. Once they feel that satisfying scratch, they often continue on their own. Positive reinforcement at work!
• Copycat Technique: Scratch the post yourself with your nails. This makes a noise and a visual that can intrigue your cat. You’re basically showing, “Hey, look what this thing can do!” Your cat might come over to join in.
• Reward Usage: Whenever you see your cat using the post, praise them and maybe give a treat. Let them know this is a good thing. Some cats will even come to you for acknowledgement after scratching (“Did you see what I did?!”). Make it a positive experience.

Cats are smart – once they realize this object is theirs and feels good to scratch (and the couch is not yielding the same fun because of our next section’s deterrents), they’ll usually prefer the post.

Protect Your Furniture (Gently)

While retraining your cat to love the scratch post, you also want to make your furniture less appealing. Here are humane ways to deter scratching on the wrong things:

• Furniture Covers or Barriers: Temporarily, you can place something over the scratched areas of furniture. Common hacks: aluminum foil taped over the spot, or double-sided sticky tape (there are products like Sticky Paws that are basically wide double-sided tape made for this purpose). Cats generally dislike the feel of these on their claws. The foil makes an odd noise and slick surface they don’t like; sticky tape is annoying on the paws. After a few tries, most cats will give up on that spot. Just be sure to test that the tape won’t ruin your furniture finish – pet-specific ones are designed to not leave residue. You can also use a plastic furniture protector (those slick sofa covers or even a plastic carpet runner with the nub side up) around the base of furniture. These are unattractive, yes, but remember it’s temporary while training. Once your cat is consistently using the post, you can remove these.
• Scent Deterrents: Cats have sensitive noses. Some people have success with citrus sprays or menthol-type smells on furniture (cats often dislike those odors). There are also pet-safe deterrent sprays. Feliway makes a product that discourages scratching on sprayed areas by mimicking the “don’t scratch here” pheromone. However, scent deterrents can be hit or miss – and you don’t want to make your couch smell weird long-term. Still, an option.
• Motion or Sound Deterrents: If there’s a particular piece of furniture that’s a battleground, you can use a motion-activated pet deterrent. For example, a can of compressed air with a motion sensor (when the cat approaches, it hisses air). These can startle a cat away from the area. One example is the “SSSCat” device. It gives them a harmless scare so they associate that furniture with an unpleasant surprise. Important: Only use if it doesn’t terrify your cat to the point of major stress. It should be a gentle “ooh I didn’t like that, I’ll not do that again,” not a trauma.
• Claw Covers: As a furniture-saving measure, you can apply soft plastic nail caps to your cat’s claws. These are tiny caps (often called Soft Paws) that you glue over the claws, so when they scratch, no damage is done. They fall off as the nails grow (and you trim the nails), usually lasting a few weeks. Not all cats tolerate them, but many do just fine. It’s a bit of effort to put them on, but it’s a painless, non-surgical way to blunt their impact. This is optional – ideally you want to train to use posts, but it can be part of a multi-prong approach or a backup if you have an uber-destructive cat.
• Regular Nail Trims: Keep those claws trimmed! If you trim your cat’s nails every 2-3 weeks, the claws are less sharp and do less damage. Start young and make nail trims a positive experience (treats, gentle handling). Even if the cat still scratches, the dulled nails won't tear up stuff as badly. Plus, trimmed nails are less likely to get snagged in fabric (which can scare the cat and also ruin threads).

Training and Redirecting Behavior

When you catch your cat scratching the couch, what do you do? The key is redirection, not punishment:

• Distract & Redirect: Clap your hands or make a sharp “Tssst!” sound to interrupt the behavior (you don’t need to shout, just a sudden noise to startle them slightly). The moment they stop, gently guide or lure them to the scratching post. You can take them to it and mimic scratching or use a toy to get their claws on it. When they scratch the post, praise and reward. Over time, they’ll get the idea that couch = no, post = yes.
• Don’t Physically Punish: Never hit your cat or throw things. Not only is it cruel, it’s counterproductive – your cat will become afraid of you, or stressed (which can lead to more scratching or other bad behaviors). Also, do not declaw as a solution – declawing is actually an amputation of the end toe bones and can lead to chronic pain and behavior issues (like biting or litter box avoidance). The humane strategies outlined here work without harming your kitty.
• Consistency: If you let them scratch one old chair but not the new sofa, that’s confusing. Provide designated scratching items and keep the “no-scratch” rule consistent for all furniture. Everyone in the household should enforce the training similarly.
• Understand Timing: You ideally want to correct (distract) while the cat is scratching inappropriately, not after. If you discover claw marks later, you can’t punish then – the cat won’t connect the dots. They live in the moment. So consistent environment setup (deterrents on furniture, attractive posts available) does a lot of the work for you even when you’re not around to supervise.

A Note on Declawing and Why to Avoid It

Because it’s important, let’s reiterate: do not declaw your cat as a scratching solution. Declawing is not like a nail trim; it’s a surgical removal of the last joint of each toe. It can lead to lifelong pain, and cats who are declawed can develop behavioral problems like biting (since they feel defenseless without claws) or not using the litter box (because their feet hurt, the litter feels painful). Many countries and some U.S. cities have banned declawing as inhumane. With the methods described above, you can successfully manage scratching without resorting to this.

Patience Pays Off

Training a cat not to scratch furniture isn’t instantaneous, but cats can learn and adapt their behavior. My own cat went from shredding the side of a box spring to exclusively using her scratching posts and pads – it took a few weeks of effort, but now our furniture is safe and she’s happier because she has appropriate outlets.

Remember to be patient and persistent. Try different types of scratchers to see what your cat loves most. Some trial and error is normal. Once you find the magic combo (for example, a tall sisal post by the couch and a horizontal cardboard scratcher by the door), you’ll likely see your cat naturally choosing those over your furniture.

Finally, when you see your cat having a good scratch on their post, take a moment to appreciate it. Scratching is part of who they are as a cat. Seeing them go at it on the “approved” item – back muscles rippling, claws working, maybe even a blissful expression – is actually a joy of cat parenthood. You’re witnessing a happy, healthy cat being...well, a cat!

Sources: PetMD’s advice on providing proper scratching posts and training cats to use them; ASPCA guidelines on deterring inappropriate scratching and offering alternatives.